Reflections on a non-"Stan"dard trip.
Well, that didn't quite go to plan, did it!
This was always going to be a bit different from previous little jaunts. Not least, as apart from a load of courier trips, and boys football weekends, it was the first time I'd travelled for more than a few days without the sensible half of this marriage. Would I do it again? Yes, subject to full approval from the afore-mentioned sensible one. Before reflecting on the denouement of the trip, a brief look back at the two counties I visited.
Uzbekistan
Given that Turkmenistan was the primary reason for doing this trip, and what happened at the end, I feel that I have almost forgotten that I spent three hugely enjoyable days in Uzbekistan. Events and places in Turkmenistan just completely over-shadowed the second half of the holiday. And, as Kevin and Perry used to say, "it's so unfair". Uzbekistan was great. If I had to recommend just one of the Stans to visit it would be Uzbekistan by some distance.
After barely seeing anything of Tashkent in September last year, it was a pleasure to spend the lion's share of two days exploring the place. Let's be completely honest, it's never going to compare favourably with the three silk road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva that are the jewels in the crown of Uzbekistan. Nevertheless, it had plenty for me to see, and was a great place to acclimatise to being back in Central Asia. Stand out attractions were the crazily ostentatious Metro stations, Chorsu Market and the area around the Centre for Islamic Civilisation & Hazrati Imam Complex.
Then there was Khiva. Oh Khiva, I adore you! The Itchan Kala (walled city) is a stunningly beautiful place. Effectively it's just one huge open-air museum, with a chilled and unmatched vibe. I'd gladly go there again. A photographer's paradise.
As a visitor in Uzbekistan I felt completely safe; even wandering around Tashkent at night. It has largely abandoned Cyrillic script in favour of Latin/Roman script. And that in itself makes everything so much easier. Plus English is more widely spoken there than in Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan or Turkmenistan. Go before it becomes über-touristy!
Turkmenistan
What a charismatic little temptress you were! Despite your "playing hard to get" challenges to even meet you, you were all I expected, and more. A glitzy, dare I say, tarty little hussy, but with good looks, a touch of class and charm to boot. Despite knowing that you have a dark and brutal side, you hid your dominatrix-like secrets well; but I wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of you.
It was a shame that I couldn't get to Merv and Mary; and their ancient silk road sites. Nevertheless, Ashgabat with its showy buildings, and the Darvaza Gas Crater are places I'll never forget. And, yes, it was absolutely worth all the effort and expense to see them.
Darvaza Gas Crater
A couple of days ago I went to a book talk by Hilary Bradt, the founder of the Bradt's Travel Guides. At 83, she's an inspiration, still wanting to push the travel boundaries. She made two telling comments that were particularly pertinent to travelling somewhere like Turkmenistan (i.e counties with very oppressive regimes, poor Human Rights records, and low on democracy). Firstly, she said that people should still travel to countries of that ilk, as very often it is the normal people in such places who stand to gain from visitors; both economically (yes I realise that the oppressors also gain), and culturally from meeting foreigners. Her second comment that struck a chord with me was, "any country that the UK Government disapproves of we (Bradt Guides) should do a guide to it. Lo and behold, Bradt are the only major Travel Guide company that has done a guide exclusively on Turkmenistan, albeit in 2005!
I asked Ms Bradt "what was the strangest place you've been to?". Her reply was interesting. Socotra, an island the size of Cornwall, off the coast of Yemen! That has raised my curiosity significantly. So much so, I've bought her guide book to it!
Illness
First of all, three weeks after my premature return, my recovery is going very well. The droopy mouth and eyelid are nearly back to normal, and my slurred speech has gone. I was strictly told to rest, which by my (low) standards I have done okay with. However, I still get very tired and most days have to resort to a short afternoon nap. Bloody old duffer!
This was the first time I'd every been taken ill abroad. I'd be a massive liar (ok, not quite Boris Johnson level) if I said that the incident didn't scare me. At points, despite my best efforts, I was really scared. Everything became magnified. My mind raced to so many crazy assumptions and conclusions. Was it a stroke? Would I die in Turkmenistan? Would I have to undergo brain surgery there? Would I ever see Cate, family and friends again? I went to all the dark corners, and it wasn't something I'd want to repeat. Of course, sitting here now writing this, all that seems utterly ridiculous. Twas a storm in a tea cup!
The events have made me reflect on the people who really matter to me. Not just Cate, and the family; but so many friends. I love you all! That might be odd to read, but I mean it. Another thing that will live with me, is the kindness, care and concern from people who hitherto were either strangers or people I'd only known for a handful of days. Phenomenal!
Future travel
One of the other crazy notions I had during the crisis was "I'm never going to travel again". Sitting in the hotel in Ashgabat, I genuinely thought that I will never the leave the UK again. I guess that's a mark of how frightened I was. Of course, writing this just over three weeks later, I'm pleased to report that my ambition and radar has reset to "normal". I can't wait to get away again, even if it means travelling on my own. Ideally Cate will accompany me, but if needs be (and with her permission), I'd go solo, or with any friend who's up for an adventure.
At the age of 63, I'm not getting any younger, so it's imperative to make the most of what I can do now. The illness has made me more resolute to get out and do more, provided that I can afford it, and not put myself at too much risk. Top of my list of places that I'm tempted by are the countries of the Caucasus, especially Georgia. She's always on my mind!! And if a "Rainy Night" there is as gorgeous as Randy Crawford's wonderful voice makes out, then I'm bang up for it! Ok, ok, I know she means Georgia, USA; but cut me a bit of slack, please! There's also a trip from Buenos Aires to Rio that I'd really like to do. Beyond those, I'm not massively bothered about long haul trips. There are a few countries in the Balkans that I've not been to - North Macedonia, Kosovo, Serbia, Bulgaria and Moldova - there's plenty more to see in Europe. Oh, and a few more Camino's.
Anyone fancy a trip to Georgia?
Despite the set back in Ashgabat, my quest for "new places" remains unyielding - even if it's just a local footpath I've never walked along before, or a football ground in a town or city that that I've never been to. The football ground fetish is, in reality, far more about "going to a new place". The football is merely an excuse, or vehicle to go somewhere. How ever much of a dump a place is perceived to be, the words of Bono at Live Aid ring true ..."...we come from Dublin City, Ireland. And like all cities, it has its good and it has its bad".
Bonio at Live Aid
Travel, in particular going to new places, is "my thing". Yes it can be stressful, dangerous, exhausting and, of course, damaging to the delicate balance of our planet. Above all, in my limited opinion, it broadens your outlook. You getter a better understanding of issues, cultures and religions in various places. Far more than you'll ever get if all you receive is whatever is peddled by the British media, or your social media feed.
A classic case of where seeing things first hand is so beneficial is something that could be described as "an elephant in the room" for so many people in the West, particularly the UK. Islam and Muslims. If you were to believe our right wing press, and the likes of Farage's acolytes, then it might be easy to be concerned or fearful. But of course, that's what they (the press/Farage etc) want you to be. Polarise, divide and rule. Go and visit a mosque, talk to Muslims; you might just learn that the vast majority of them (like any other religious group or race) just want to live peaceful lives and share this planet to all our benefit. If you get the opportunity, go to Istanbul, and visit the utterly spectacular Suleymaniye Mosque. It's a stunning building, but more importantly you'll get a sense of peace and harmony. It drips peace. Go and find out for yourself, and FFS don't just believe what you're fed by our increasingly polarised media.
The Blog
If you're reading this, then firstly thank you for doing so. I am exceptionally mindful that people may regard me writing about my experiences as being self-indulgent, esoteric and just plain showing off! Be that as it may, but I'd like to put a little spin on my rationale for doing this. In fact, not just the blog, but also for posting a lot of photo's of my travels (both near and far) on Facebook.
There are two primary reasons for doing it. Firstly, and yes this self-indulgent; by writing it "whilst it's fresh" helps me to remember the experience in far more detail. As time passes, we all tend to remember things in a less of balanced way. It can either be through rose-tinted glasses, or warts and all. Writing it down helps to bring back the memories, the people, the incidents, the pain, the joy, the smells and sights.
The second reason, is to try and inspire people to get up and get out. It doesn't matter where. Go for a walk near where you live, you'll see things that you never knew existed, and you'll feel better (physically and mentally) for just getting outside. Go somewhere different on holiday, or for a weekend break; it'll broaden your mind. I don't mean to patronise anyone at all, however we are living in a world where we are increasingly fed stuff based on AI and algorithms. And of course, that largely means "feed them more of what they like and know". We, as humans, are becoming more and more conditioned to what "they" think we want and need to see. Buck the trend; please!
I know that it can be hard to get up and do "new stuff". There's always lots of valid reasons why not; but give it a go. Open "the too difficult box" occasionally. You might just love what you'll find. And if stupid old pleb like me can do it, then so can anyone.
A old mate of mine, who works in an office full of very hardened cynics and mickey-takers, often uses a phrase that not only makes me laugh, but has a meaningful impact on what I do. Faced with the option of staying inside a pub to have a drink or sitting outside, his stock response (unless it's absolutely tipping down outside) is "Why would I want to stay inside? People go inside to die!"
Brutal and cynical though it may be, it resonates with me. Get out, whilst you can. Seize the day. You never know what's round the corner, as I found to my cost; so while you see your chance take it!
Til the next time!
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